If you’re anything like me, the fall season means food season. The time is traditionally associated with the harvest, and everything culminating with a Thanksgiving celebration does mean one has to truly think about what they’re looking to make — so I figured I’d share with you the recipe for my “famous” apple pie.
An old saying may describe apple pie as so American that it warrants comparison, but the truth is that the dish originated centuries ago (like many other innovations) in the Netherlands. The thought does make some sense, though, since the Dutch settled the first real “American” colonies as “Nieuw Nederland” (New Netherland) in the modern-day Northeast — including Connecticut. Surely, in those times, good apple pie was enjoyed.
My recipe is an adaptation of the Dutch “appeltaart” style with inspiration from a variety of historical Connecticut and New York cookbooks, TV chef Alton Brown’s recipes, family tradition and good old-fashioned trial and error.
Ingredients and Supplies
It’s very difficult to make an apple pie without… apples. Strangely, I’m told it can be done, but your best bet would be to acquire 12-15 medium–to–medium-large apples. You can usually use a half-peck. When it comes to type, I go for a team-up of Honeycrisp and McIntosh apples, which are available from most grocers.
You can also pick your own apples — why not? There are numerous orchards in Connecticut! My girlfriend and I enjoy visiting Lyman Orchards in Middlefield, which was also recently named best apple orchard in the nation.
For the supporting cast, gather:
- 2 tablespoons real butter — I recommend using half unsalted and half Irish butter, if you find it.
- 2 heaping tablespoons flour — the all-purpose kind.
- 1 cup white sugar
- 3/4 cup brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons apple or peach jelly
- 2 teaspoons cinnamon — If you have Saigon cinnamon (aka Vietnamese cinnamon), use it.
- 1/4 teaspoons nutmeg — Grating your own whole nutmeg is fun, too.
- 1/4 teaspoons cloves
- 1/4 teaspoons allspice
- 1 tablespoon apple cider or applejack — also known as apple brandy.
- 2 teaspoons lemon juice
If you want to make your pie the Dutch way, add these repertory players:
- A handful of Golden raisins
- Some walnuts — chopped
- 1 egg
- 1/2 tablespoon butter
- 1 teaspoon sugar
When it comes to hardware, I make use of an antique peeler-corer-slicer (mine on its “thick” slice adjustment), but you can easily use a handheld peeler and a chef’s knife. Some quality mixing bowls, a colander, a sifter and the usual kitchen utensils complete the deal.
Oh, yeah, this recipe was designed for a conventional oven — but convection ovens can easily be accommodated for, and a larger toaster oven may do the trick too. Just maybe not your Easy-Bake Oven.
The Flaky Elephant in the Room
Here’s a secret: I usually don’t make my own crust. (Cue the cheesy horror movie sound effect!)
I use frozen pie crusts which are ready-to-use. The ones I like are 9 inches in diameter and are pretty deep. They come in a pack of two (one for the bottom and one for the top) and include the pie pans.
There are many frozen pie crusts out there, but if you’re enthusiastic to make yours from scratch, I recommend Alton Brown’s pie crust recipe and his “Good Eats” episode on the topic. (Add in some of that Applejack, while you’re at it.)
Now, Let’s Bake
Pre-heat your oven to 425 degrees and prepare to use the bottom rack.
In a large mixing bowl, gather your apple slices and toss them with 1/4 cup of white sugar. Move them into the colander — placing the original bowl underneath. Let this sit and drain for a while, for about an hour and a half; if you’re cooking other food at the same time as your pie, go work on that.
Once that time elapses, the apples will have provided some juice. Set it aside for now.
Sift together the remaining white sugar, brown sugar, spices and flour. Pour lightly over the apples and coat them lightly. Then, add the jelly, cider or applejack, and lemon juice — and toss. If you’re not using Irish butter, add a pinch of salt. (Kosher salt, perhaps?) Mix so everything is coated… and try not to have too many snacks. This is your pie filling!
Get your crusts ready; it’s time to make this into a real pie.
If you’re so inclined, arrange your apple slices going out-to-in, overlapping them evenly for a prettier presentation. Once they’re all in, the goal is to have them piled slightly higher in the middle. Pour any remaining goodness from your apple bowl on top.
If you want to make your pie in the Dutch style, make your raisin-nut topping by beating the egg and combining with the raisins, chopped walnut and teaspoon of sugar. Melt the 1/2 tablespoon of butter and mix in to create a batter. Spread this topping over your apples.
Cut your 2 tablespoons of butter into small chunks and arrange them evenly atop the apples. If you’re feeling the instinct to add any more lemon juice, just a few drops here — but don’t overdo it.
Remember that extra juice from the apples earlier? On your stovetop, cook it down until it’s reduced: thick like a glaze.
Get your top crust situated and make sure it’s sealed to the edges of your bottom crust. Crimping the edges of the pie crust with a fork was always my favorite part growing up. Use that fork to add some ventilation holes to the top crust.
Brush your apple glaze onto the top crust: this will help with browning and give your pie an extra punch of flavor.
Put your pie onto a sheet pan and move it to the oven! Start for 20 minutes at 425 degrees. Once your timer goes off, lower the heat to 350 degrees and move the rack to the center.
Add your pie back and bake for 45 minutes, or until you see a golden-brown crust with a tender apple filling.
Let her cool down, since good things come to those who wait. When it’s time for slicing, make sure you use a serrated knife and try your best not to disturb the crust.
What About Streusel?
Some pies called “Dutch apple pies” have a streusel topping — the kind that’s crumbly like on a coffee cake. That style is based upon dessert techniques from the old country and popularized through none other than the Pennsylvania Dutch — who were really German immigrants.
I also enjoy that style, called “appelkruimeltaart” in Dutch, but my recipe is based on the flaky crusted pie. Yummy!
Happy Harvest
As the scent of cinnamon and baked apples fills the kitchen, it’s easy to remember that the autumn season isn’t just about the dishes on the table — it’s about the hands that prepared them and the stories shared over every slice.
A good pie is made from love, patience and the joy of coming together. I’m happy to report that my girlfriend took back all the ill things she said about “flippity-floppity” pies when she tried mine; or at least, that’s what she said. (I love her, all the same.)
Hopefully this recipe for my oh-so-good apple pie reminds you of tasty times, and if you try it out, let me know. I sure hope you and your family enjoy it.